Cheapest Reloading
Do you want to start reloading but only in small quantities, and with the lowest possible initial costs? The Lee Loader reloading kit, which we thoroughly tested in this article, might be the right choice for you.
Cover photo: Lee Loader
Reloading offers the advantage of tuning each cartridge precisely to your needs, and at the same time, it brings considerable financial savings. For common full-metal jacket calibers, the cost difference between reloaded ammo and factory rounds isn’t huge, but for hunting cartridges, the difference becomes significant—often saving several crowns per cartridge. That’s why many people reload primarily to save money. However, when calculating the total savings, you must also account for the cost of the reloading equipment. If you shoot thousands of rounds annually, it pays off quickly—but not every hunter is also a passionate shooter. So, what are your savings options if you don't seek sub-MOA accuracy and only fire a few dozen to a few hundred rounds a year? The undisputed cheapest option is the Lee Loader kit from Lee Precision, which this year celebrates an incredible 67 years on the market. So what is it, how does it work, and is it the right tool for you?
„To reload with the Loader, you practically don’t need any workspace. You can do it in the middle of the forest with a rock instead of a mallet if it comes to that!“
Reloading station in your pocket
The Lee Loader is a reloading kit dedicated to a specific caliber. Unlike a traditional reloading press, you can't change dies—you simply buy the kit in your chosen caliber, and that’s the only one you can reload. On the other hand, the Loader costs about the same as a basic die set, so it’s not really a limiting disadvantage. What is slightly limiting, however, is the range of available calibers. Specifically, kits are available for rifle cartridges: .223 Rem, .243 Win, .270 Win, .30-30 Win, .308 Win, .30-06 Springfield, .45-70, .303 British, and 7.62x54R; revolver cartridges (also used in lever-action rifles): .44 Mag / .44 Special, .357 Mag / .38 Special, and .454 Casull / .45 Colt; and pistol calibers: 9x19 mm and .45 ACP. Veteran hunters using the European classics—7mm, 8mm, or 9.3mm—will be disappointed. However, the first seven listed calibers are commonly found in many hunters’ arsenals. For the purposes of our test, I obtained the .223 Rem version, although I also have long-term experience with the .357 Mag variant.
The kit consists of six parts and is very compact. It fits into a pants pocket and weighs only 400 g. Yet it allows you to perform all basic reloading operations and, unlike a reloading press, does not need to be mounted or clamped to anything. It requires practically no workspace. If the included powder scoop suits your needs and your bullet seating depth is set, then all you need is a mallet—and you're ready to reload. Or not even that—you really can reload in the woods with a rock if necessary! That’s why the Loader is attractive even to the minimalist wing of the prepper community. As hunters, we might not have much use for such a solution, but the overall compactness of the system is clearly an advantage.
Bullet seating.
Detail of the tool used for both primer and bullet seating.Reloading process
First, remove the spent primer. Place the brass case on the anvil, insert the decapping pin, and strike it with the mallet. Then, clean the case thoroughly. Once dry, apply a very thin layer of case lube and insert it into the die, tapping it in with the mallet. Keep tapping until the case is fully seated in the die. Then, turn the die around, place it on the anvil again, insert the designated rod, and tap the case back out of the die. The next step is priming. Place a new primer onto the priming base, set the case on top of it, reinsert the same rod used before, and gently tap the primer into place. Make sure the primer is seated just slightly below flush with the case head. Now, place the case back on the anvil, fit the die onto it, and pour a measured charge of powder through the opening in the die. Insert the bullet into the opening, and finally use the top part of the priming base as a support surface to lightly tap the bullet into the desired seating depth. The last steps are to measure the cartridge overall length, wipe off any remaining case lube, check bullet seating integrity, and you're done.
Ejecting the case from the die.
Resizing the brass. Drive the case fully into the die. Don’t forget the lube.
Seating the bullet. Tap it really gently.
Decent Accuracy
How does it work in practice? The package includes a clear, illustrated manual, and a short YouTube demonstration video shows more than a thousand words could—though I’ve already roughly described the process in the previous box. To summarize, it’s a very straightforward and not particularly skill-intensive process. Besides the kit itself, you’ll need case lube to prep the brass—something like Lee Resizing Lube (approx. 172 CZK), which will last you for several hundred cycles. Do not reload without lube! Case forming will become much more difficult, you’ll ruin part of your brass, and your die will wear out much faster.
The kit includes a clear, illustrated manual..jpg?w=1920)
Group size comparison at 150 meters. Left: rounds from the Lee Challenger press with standard Lee dies, group size 56 mm. Right: rounds from the Lee Loader, group size approx. 80 mm.
The die consists of two threaded parts, allowing for precise adjustment of bullet seating depth.
Removing the spent primer.Other than the lube, you just need a mallet and the components for your cartridges—cases, bullets, powder, and primers—and you’re ready to reload. A few important caveats: during the priming step, avoid heavy strikes. Hitting too hard may cause the primer to detonate. While not catastrophic (as long as powder is kept at a safe distance), it’s certainly unpleasant. Use caution also during bullet seating. Hammering too hard may result in overly deep or uneven seating, or even damage to the bullet tip. Always decap the spent primer before washing the brass—this will help them dry faster.
For bullet seating depth, do not exceed the standardized maximum overall length (OAL) for the given cartridge, as specified in the Lee Loader manual. For this, you’ll need one additional tool: a caliper. The die consists of two threaded parts that allow you to adjust the bullet seating depth. Once set, the die will retain the depth, but it's still a good idea to randomly check every 5–10 rounds with calipers.
For testing, I reloaded 60 rounds and fired them from a semi-automatic SPR-type AR-15 rifle. Results show that the Loader produces relatively accurate ammunition. This isn’t match-grade quality, but it's comparable to basic factory loads—provided the correct reloading procedures are followed. You’ll find a photo comparison between two groups: one set of handloads from a Lee Challenger press with standard Lee dies, and one set loaded with the Lee Loader. In numbers, at 150 meters, the group from the Challenger press measured around 56 mm, while the Loader group was around 80 mm. With more effort and premium components, the results could be better (the rifle itself has a tested potential of around 0.8 MOA). Still, this clearly shows that if you hunt at distances up to about 200 meters, the Loader can hold its own in terms of accuracy.
Lee Loader Reloading Kit.
„I managed to reload .223 Rem in an average of 65 seconds per round. That’s roughly half the speed of a single-stage press!“
Choosing Powder and Cartridge Overall Length
Given the article's focus, allow me to briefly stray from the product review and offer guidance to readers who are considering trying reloading to save money, but don’t want to dive in deeper or spend more than necessary. Here’s how to determine your cartridge configuration. If you have an experienced friend with reloading software, tell them what bullet you want to shoot, in what caliber, and from what barrel length. They’ll calculate the appropriate powder type and charge weight for you. If you don’t know anyone like that, ask your local dealer. Alternatively, consult reloading data from powder manufacturers—these usually list suitable powders and charge weights for different bullet types and calibers (mostly available online), although the listings are often quite limited. The same applies to the data sheet included with the Loader. In our region, the most affordable yet sufficiently high-quality powders are typically found under the Vectan brand.
The included powder scoop will not be accurate on its own. Its volume is fixed by the manufacturer, which may not match the powder charge required for your specific load. You’ll need to weigh your charges using a precise scale (0.01 g accuracy) and potentially modify the scoop to match the desired charge weight. A suitable compact jewelry scale can be purchased starting at 400 CZK.
Always verify the scoop’s capacity against the specific powder using a scale.Is it the right choice for you?
The Loader is hard to compare directly to other options. It's a unique product in its own category—at least on our market. Any bench-mounted press is more convenient and faster, but the Loader’s strengths lie in ultra-low initial cost: only 1.347 CZK. You’ll still need a mallet, case lube, and ideally a scale and caliper—but that’s it (not counting the reloading components). There’s simply no cheaper way to get into reloading. Another key advantage is the lack of workspace requirements. You don’t have to drill a press into a bench—you just take out the Loader when needed and stash it in a drawer afterward.
It may also appeal to shooters who want to reload small quantities of specialty ammo alongside regular factory loads. That was actually my situation. My first reloading tool, about 15 years ago, was a Loader in .357 Mag, which I bought to make custom ammo for a backup gun during hunting. Otherwise, I stuck to factory ammo. It didn’t take long before reloading’s advantages led me to buy a standard press—but that’s another story.
From a hunting perspective, the Loader makes sense for those who don’t shoot a lot and don’t shoot at long ranges. One colleague, for example, shoots about 60 rounds a year—exclusively during hunting season. Of those, only 2–3 are for zeroing at the season’s start. Personally, I wouldn’t go that route, but for his needs—shots within 50 meters using an old combination gun—it’s enough, and he’s certainly not alone. In such cases, the Lee Loader isn’t optimal—but it works.
Charging the case with powder.
Return on Investment
Out of 60 rounds, only once did the bolt not fully close, and I had to assist it slightly using the appropriate button. With a bolt-action rifle, I’m confident this wouldn’t have happened at all. With my older .357 Mag kit, I reloaded an estimated 300 rounds before passing it on to a colleague, who reloaded a similar amount with it—without any signs of wear in critical areas. If you consistently lubricate your brass properly, I would confidently estimate the kit’s lifespan in the low thousands of rounds.
So, how quickly does the kit pay for itself (excluding your time)? As an example, a factory soft-point .30-06 round from S&B costs around 30 CZK. Reloading that same round costs roughly 17 CZK. Let’s say you buy a scale for 400 CZK and case lube, bringing your total Loader setup cost to about 1.900 CZK. That investment pays off after just 146 rounds, and every subsequent shot saves you 13CZK. What if you're shooting premium ammo? Take, for example, factory Hornady Superformance at 68 CZK per round. Reloading it yourself costs just 25 CZK—meaning your kit pays off in only 44 rounds, and after that, you save 43 CZK per shot. That’s a significant saving, not even counting your time.
As for speed, I managed to reload a .223 Rem round in 65 seconds on average. That’s about half the speed of a single-stage press. Still, if you only shoot up to 200 rounds per year, you can prep all your ammo in an afternoon and be set for the whole season.
The most affordable and capable traditional press is the Lee Challenger, which costs 3.355 CZK. To it, you'll need to add dies 1.347 CZK, and with a scale, your total is around 5.100 CZK. While much more comfortable to operate than the Loader, it’s also 3.200 CZK more expensive, and you’ll need more space for it. The ROI in the case of the Challenger comes after 393 rounds,119 respectively, but you'll also spend half as much time reloading.
You can purchase the Loader kit, as well as other Lee Precision products, from the retailer STROBL.CZ s.r.o. More information is available at strobl.cz, or directly from the manufacturer’s website at leeprecision.com
Photo credits: Author’s archive, manufacturer materials – leeprecision.com
Author: Tomáš Prachař
This article originally appeared in Lovec magazine by Extra Publishing
Middle ground – but is it worth it?
For completeness, let’s mention the Lee Breech Lock Hand Press Kit for 2.695 CZK, also from Lee. It’s compatible with standard dies, doesn’t need to be mounted to a bench, and is more compact than the Challenger (although larger than the Loader). It also doesn’t require hammering. That said, even with the Loader, you don’t need heavy blows—though you will hear some tapping, which neighbors in an apartment building may not appreciate. A press is much quieter, and the Breech Lock is no exception. This model can be considered a middle ground between a full-size bench press and the Loader—but in my opinion, it’s not the best route. It doesn’t match the Challenger for ease of operation, and the financial savings are minimal. Reloading speed is about the same as the Loader. The only clear advantage lies in portability and compact storage.
The second most affordable press on the market: Lee Breech Lock Hand Press.
