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Casting your own bullets is a fairly complex and advanced reloading operation that requires experience, specialized equipment, and a certain amount of time, but it has significant advantages. What are they, and how does the process work?
Title photo: Illustrative – cast bullets.
As for the advantages of casting, factory-made bullets in some calibers are harder to find, or the selection is very limited. Some historical firearms also do not work particularly well with common lightweight FMJ bullets. This of course applies to muzzleloaders, but also to some historical repeating firearms. Casting also appeals to preppers because lead is easier to obtain than bullets themselves and can be recycled over and over again without government oversight and independently of the supply chain. However, the main motivation for most people interested in casting is saving money. To give you an idea, the cheapest factory-made all-lead .308 bullet costs CZK 3.8 (Ares 168 gr). If you cast it yourself, however, at current lead prices and excluding the cost of your time and electricity, the same bullet will cost you approximately CZK 0.50. Up to CZK 3 if you fit it with a gas check (more on that later). So if you shoot a lot, casting can save you a considerable amount of money overall. Of course, you should also factor the time and cost of equipment into the equation, but generally speaking, for many people it is still well worth it. Once you get the hang of it, excluding material and equipment preparation, you can produce 200–250 bullets per hour. Groups will be somewhat larger than with commercially manufactured bullets, but if you put some care into the process, a modern firearm can potentially deliver sub-2 MOA accuracy, which is perfectly adequate for recreational shooting or training at reasonable distances. On the other hand, cast bullets are not suitable for all types of cartridges or all types of rifling (specifically Micro-Groove and true polygonal rifling), and there are also health risks; see the relevant box. You can forget about lightweight spitzer bullets (heavier bullets with RN or FN noses are the standard) and more modern cartridges operating at higher pressures. Even hard lead alloys quickly begin to reach their limits beyond 40,000 PSI. But if these limitations are not an obstacle for you, let’s get into the basics of bullet casting!
„Lead can, of course, be melted in a pot with a ladle over a campfire if necessary, but using a dedicated electric melting pot is incomparably more convenient and healthier!“
Mould and melting pot
The basic tool is a bullet mould with handles. The most widespread, least expensive, more than sufficiently well-made, trouble-free option, available in an almost endless range of variants, is Lee Precision moulds, which feature two cavities for casting two bullets at once and cost CZK 1,290. When choosing one, also check what actual (rather than nominal) bullet diameter was originally used, or browse online forums to find out which diameter has proven most successful. With historical firearms, the answer may not be entirely straightforward. The same can be said of bullet weight selection. With more modern cartridges, it can also be slightly confusing that all-lead bullets tend to have a slightly larger diameter than FMJ bullets. You would search in vain for a mould producing .308-diameter bullets; instead, .309 and similar diameters are used. Next, you need something to melt the lead. You can certainly do it with a pot and ladle over a campfire if necessary, but using a dedicated electric melting pot is incomparably more convenient and healthier. Prices start at CZK 2,138 for the Lee Precision Melter and go up to CZK 15,121 for the Lyman MAG 25. I recommend choosing a bottom-pour model, which allows you to dispense molten lead precisely and directly into the mould, whereas with a conventional setup you scoop the lead from the top with a ladle, which is slower and less convenient. An important feature is precise temperature control. A dedicated thermometer can help with monitoring, although higher-end models can regulate the temperature themselves. A stable, robust construction and large capacity are also beneficial, as the temperature will fluctuate less when lead is added continuously, and remelting will also be easier. You will also need a ladle, even if you have a bottom-pour model, because you will occasionally need to remove something from the melt. You will also need an ingot mould for storing lead. You can improvise or buy a dedicated mould, such as the Lee Ingot Mold for CZK 83.
All Lee Precision products mentioned in this article can be purchased from STROBL.CZ s.r.o. More information is available at strobl.cz, or directly on the manufacturer’s websit leeprecision.com
Basic equipment includes a melting pot, here an RCBS Easy Melt-2, a mould, ladle, and a good pair of gloves.
Lee Precision moulds are an affordable and reliable choice and are available in an almost endless range of variants.
The Lee Lube & Size Kit sizing and lubricating die costs only CZK 745. You simply push the bullet through it, which sizes it, after which it drops into the plastic collection container on top.
From left: a .324/177 gr bullet with a gas check lubricated with Alox, another with solid lubricant in the grooves, and, for comparison, a traditional .445 round ball for a percussion muzzleloader.Bullet sizing
If you cast traditional round balls, you do not need any additional equipment, but in the case of “elongated” bullets, sizing is another necessary step. During this process, the bullet is pushed through a sizing die of a specific diameter, bringing it precisely to the required dimensions, smoothing the surface, and removing imperfections. Sizing itself is not strictly necessary for recreational muzzleloader shooting, but with more modern firearms, from black-powder breechloaders to modern semi-automatics, sizing is certainly advisable. Sizing is performed either with a dedicated lubrisizer, using interchangeable sizing dies according to the desired caliber, or with a sizing die mounted in a standard reloading press. A dedicated machine is somewhat more convenient to use and, most importantly, can simultaneously lubricate the bullet’s lube grooves with a solid lubricant. It is, however, several times more expensive than a die. With dies, however, you can achieve the same result; instead of lubricating through the press, you pour melted lubricant over the bullets, allow it to harden, cut the bullets free, and run them through the sizing die, which removes the excess lubricant. An affordable and reliable option is the Lee Lube & Size Kit, which costs only CZK 745, or, if you reload several calibers, the more versatile Lee Bullet Sizer Kit for CZK 574 is worthwhile, combined with an insert for the specific caliber at CZK 459.
That brings us to the final essential item: lubricant, which is applied to the bullet before and after sizing. Without it, sizing will be more difficult, surface finish will be poorer, and there is also a risk of damaging the die. In the barrel, the bullet will also suffer significantly more abrasion and cause leading of the bore, which can result in reduced accuracy and damage to the firearm. In the muzzleloading world, this is a fairly extensive and passionately debated subject, and lubricant can be applied in several ways with muzzleloaders (patch, wad, paper cartridge, lube grooves, etc.). But if we simplify matters and focus on more modern cast-bullet designs, these have lube grooves around their circumference. If you shoot black powder, you will need to fill them with a relatively firm lubricant. Synthetic lubricants are available, but a homemade natural mixture performs better. A classic recipe is beef tallow and beeswax in a 2:1 ratio. I have found that adding a little lanolin works well, as its tackiness helps the mixture stay in larger grooves, although there are countless recipes. The main thing is that it should be firm, stay in the grooves, and not run, which also depends on temperature, so there are special winter formulations as well. An entire book could be written about this… With smokeless powder, a thinner synthetic lubricant is successfully used in smaller quantities, and the grooves do not need to be filled. Lee Liquid Alox has proven effective; a bottle costs CZK 315 and, once diluted, is enough for thousands of bullets, although when fired it tends to produce somewhat more smoke and combustion residue.
Not All Lead Is the Same
Unless you happen upon a source of lead through acquaintances, work, or sheer luck, your main target will be scrap yards. Most buy lead, but not all sell it, so call ahead before visiting. Pipes, seals, and cable sheathing are made from relatively pure lead. A shooting-range backstop can also be a good source, especially after a group of muzzleloader shooters has loosened it up. For alloying, so-called linotype metal, an alloy of lead, tin, and antimony, used to be popular, but it is now difficult to obtain. Lead-acid batteries, on the other hand, cannot be recommended. Wheel weights are an interesting source material. They contain plenty of impurities, sometimes including steel fragments that must be removed during remelting, but the resulting alloy, when combined with slower-burning smokeless powder, often does not require any further alloying.
After purchase, the lead must be remelted in order to remove some of the undesirable impurities. Simply melt everything down, skim off the dross with a ladle, and finally pour the entire batch into ingots. Add wax to the melt; a piece of an ordinary candle is sufficient. It will bind the impurities, but be careful, as it will burn for a while. Of all bullet-casting operations, this is the dirtiest process, so it is best done outdoors. Even then, more or fewer impurities will remain in the lead, but the mixture will be homogeneous and you will have removed the worst contaminants. There are methods for refining lead further, but that takes us into demanding “alchemy”—for example, removing copper by adding sulfur and then skimming copper sulfide from the melt. Definitely not for beginners.
Maximum-purity lead is not always desirable either. It certainly has its place in muzzleloaders (although with muskets and when shooting patched round balls, for example, it is not strictly necessary). However, if the bullet is subjected to greater stress during firing in the form of high velocity, pressure, and friction, the rifling can strip the bullet. The surface becomes torn, accuracy at the target suffers, and the bore becomes leaded, which in extreme cases can result in barrel damage if another shot is fired. Adding alloying elements can increase the hardness of the material, thereby improving the bullet’s resistance to rifling stripping. Conversely, a bullet that is too hard may not strip, but at the same time it will not seal properly against the rifling. During firing, combustion gases will blow past it through the gaps, melting the material and depositing residue in the grooves. With black-powder firearms, this is generally not a problem when lead with minimal impurities is used. The same can be said of subsonic loads using smokeless powder. However, if you are reloading something more powerful, hardness needs to be checked. We will get to that, however, in the next and final part of our article, which you will find in the next issue of our magazine.
Remelting is essential for properly cleaning the lead. A high-capacity melting pot is useful for this, although many people do it outdoors over a fire because it is a fairly dirty process.Health Risks
Lead is a toxic material, and some exposure during casting is unavoidable. According to some reports, there is no such thing as a safe low dose, but in practice, by following proper safety precautions, you can keep exposure within acceptable limits. First and foremost, work at the lowest practical temperature. Lead melts at 327.5 °C. Because of impurities and the need for smooth casting, you will need to go somewhat higher, but do not exceed approximately 450 °C, at which point the melt begins to release harmful fumes in increasingly dangerous quantities. Even so, installing local exhaust ventilation is highly recommended. You can improvise with a range-hood duct and a fan; the setup can be put together for around CZK 400. Whenever possible, cast outside living areas, for example in a garage. Above all, make sure children cannot access the area, as they are particularly susceptible to lead poisoning. Wear gloves during both casting and sizing, do not eat or drink while working, and wash thoroughly and launder your clothing afterward. Lead dust formed from airborne contaminants should not be blown away; wipe it up carefully instead. You definitely do not want to inhale it!
It is important to keep temperatures low, which is why a melting pot with a precise thermostat is highly beneficial.Photo credits: Author’s archive
Author: Tomáš Prachař
The article was originally published in Lovec magazine by Extra Publishing
